Go With the Flow?

I tried a couple of times to get to Torrey Pines State Reserve for a hike, but getting a parking space along the highway seemed like a delicate operation and the price to pay to park in the lot was $20.

But I did eventually snag a space on a quiet morning and make my way along the beach toward the cliffs.  I knew there were hiking trails up there, but was unable to find a guide on my phone.  You can hit the link I've provided to avoid having the same problem!

I didn't see a path or any signs, so down the beach I continued, happy to admire the view.  People kept coming down the beach toward me so I figured I must be heading in the right direction.

The tide was a little high, so I wasn't able to search out critters, but I did spot shells in the sandstone.

And the colors in the stone mixed with the sea vegetation made for a nice shot.

Lo and behold, a staircase suddenly appeared! And everyone was coming down...not going up.  Yep, I was apparently doing the hike in reverse instead of going with the flow.  Oh well, never one to do what everyone else does anyway it did not bother me at all.  Most folks park where I did but then hike up the actual driving road to the top to avoid paying the exhorbitant parking fee.

I did make sure to turn around often to see the view everyone else was getting as they meandered downward instead of upward.  I was just in time to see this fool jumping over the roped off area right next to the sign telling him to do no such thing.

I guess he wasn't worried about the $400 fine.  Or the park workers who were about 500 feet away working on the trail.  Erosion, and in particular off-trail hiking, can damage sensitive natural features beyond repair which is something I guess he doesn't care too much about.

I had spent enough money getting to San Diego, I didn't need to run up my tab any higher so I was content to get my photographs from the correct side of the markers.

cactus blossom

The California Ground Squirrel didn't mind breaking the rules to eat his snack, but I don't blame him for staying off the trail as it was nothing but a conga line of humans.

There were a couple of spur trails out to the head of the cliffs, but since I had just had the up close and personal view of the beach I skipped those and continued my gentle upward climb.

Yucca Point...I think

There was some vegetation on the sandy headland, including this cheerful plant that I think is the Lanceleaf Liveforever which is a succulent.

Dudleya lanceolata

And finally I saw the Torrey Pine, which is our nation’s rarest pine tree.  In 1769, the Portola-Serra Sacred Expedition passed through nearby Sorrento Valley on its way from San Diego to colonize Monterey and establish missions along the way. The trail they used is referred to as El Camino Real. The trees themselves were referred to as Soledad Pines (Solitary Pines). The name remained until 1850.

Pinus torreyana

It was “officially” discovered by Dr. Charles Christopher Parry. This was the year that California became a State of the Union and Parry was in San Diego as botanist for the US-Mexico Boundary Survey. Parry was a medical doctor with an interest in botany: specifically, why plants grew where they did and how Indians used plants. Parry named the tree for his mentor, Dr. John Torrey, of New York.  Personally I prefer Soledad Pine but I'm sure the native Kumeyaay had a name for it as well and notice the Torrey Pines website had no information on what that might have been...

Yes, a few fools were running even though it starting to be very hot as it was almost noon

I didn't have time to hunt it down but here is some great information from Mike Connolly on their website: Prior to European contact, the Kumeyaay lived in Sh’mulq (clan) territories with summer and winter village sites. Territory was not defined in the same manner as the Europeans, who viewed all resources on the land as "property" of the landowner. A hunter tracking big game may travel through many Sh’mulq territories without trouble. 

Trade routes were used for communication. Runners could relay important information over great distances in relatively short time. When the Quechan at Yuma rebelled against the Spanish in 1780, the news reached the Kumeyaay at the Mission in San Diego that same evening, a distance of 120 miles. Astronomy was an important tool to time when plants could be harvested or when burns should take place. The calendar was probably used to determine when the Sh’mulq should move to winter or summer camp.

Visitor Center at end of trail - from there head down road to beach.
A few other trails of interest spur off road including pine groves.

From coastal marshes to mountain wetlands, the Kumeyaay practiced a sophisticated form of environmental management. Fire was certainly the greatest tool used by the Kumeyaay and other tribes in California. Fire opened up land covered with the dominant chaparral. This allowed the transitional plants useful for foods and medicines to become available. The opening in the chaparral canopy attracted game animals used for food, clothing and utilities. In the drier areas approaching the desert, drainages were dammed using rocks and brush to trap sediment. This helped to raise the water table and allowed the creation of wetlands.

Imagine that, the native population was practicing land management then in the way that we are "discovering" is the best way now! Sorry for the sarcasm there, I really couldn't help myself.  Next time I go out to San Diego I will have to seek out some tribal destinations to explore.  And the list of the things I want to learn continues to grow, as usual!

Eagle River - Dancing with Eagles

Wayne followed me up to Eagle River last week, where we stayed at the Chain O Lakes Campground. The campground is mostly seasonal sites, but not bad for that kind of place.  I'm still just a state park kind of girl and of course I grumble constantly when we stay at these kind of places.  Poor Wayne has to put up with a lot from me, don't be fooled by my easygoing appearance!

I forgot to take a picture of the campground, but I did get one of the lake.  Wayne was impressed with the lakes themselves, and spent his time daydreaming about spending a summer up there boating and fishing.  By himself, I assume, since I would lose my mind from boredom!

Between appointments in Eagle River and Minocqua I stopped at Awassa Trails in St. Germain for a 2 mile walk in the woods that did a lot to improve my mood.

Art always improves my mood, and I even got to enjoy some in the Marshfield Clinic in Minocqua while waiting to talk to a potential customer. The painting is titled Nanabozhoo Dancing with Eagles and was created by Rabbett Before Horses Strickland.

Stories about Nanabozho (spelling varies by region) vary considerably from community to community. Nanabozho is usually said to be the son of either the West Wind or the Sun, and since his mother died when he was a baby, Nanabozho was raised by his grandmother Nokomis. In some tribal traditions Nanabozho is an only child, but in others he has a twin brother or is the eldest of four brothers. The most important of Nanabozho's brother figures is Chibiabos or Moqwaio, Nanabozho's inseparable companion (often portrayed as a wolf) variously said to be his twin brother, younger brother, or adopted brother. Nanabozho is associated with rabbits and is sometimes referred to as the Great Hare (Misabooz), although he is rarely depicted as taking the physical form of a rabbit. Nanabozho is a trickster figure and can be a bit of a rascal, but unlike trickster figures in some tribes, he does not model immoral and seriously inappropriate behavior-- Nanabozho is a virtuous hero and a dedicated friend and teacher of humanity. Though he may behave in mischievous, foolish, and humorous ways in the course of his teaching, Nanabozho never commits crimes or disrespects Native culture and is viewed with great respect and affection by Anishinabe people.  Here is a link to some of the stories and where I found this information.

Many Murals

Recently on the road my eye caught quite a few murals, not all of which I had time to stop and investigate further.  The nice thing about my new job is that I will be driving through these areas again and don't have to stop for everything immediately like you try to do when on vacation.

While driving through the town of Keshena I saw a few things related to the Menominee Indian Tribe.  Their rich culture, history, and residency in the area now known as the State of Wisconsin, and parts of the States of Michigan and Illinois, dates back 10,000 years. At the start of the Treaty Era in the early 1800’s, the Menominee occupied a land base estimated at 10 million acres; however, through a series of seven treaties entered into with the United States Government during the 1800’s, the Tribe witnessed its land base erode to little more than 235,000 acres today. The Tribe experienced further setbacks in the 1950’s with the U.S. Congress’ passage of the Menominee Termination Act, which removed federal recognition over the Tribe and threatened to deprive Menominee people of their cultural identity. Fortunately, the Tribe won back its federal recognition in 1973 through a long and difficult grassroots movement that culminated with the passage of the Menominee Restoration Act, Public Law 93-197, on December 22, 1973. (from www.menominee-nsn.gov)

lovely views in the Menominee Nation

In recent years the Menominee along with Hard Rock Casino (owned by Florida's Seminole tribe) were trying to get an off-reservation entertainment complex going in Kenosha which would have provided 10,000 jobs to the area.  Kenosha suffered over the last decades in employment rates with the closing of the Chrysler plant and other employers.  Governor Walker rejected the plan in 2015 just before he entered the presidential primaries.  There were a lot of factors leading to the decision, so I will remain neutral on the subject since it is an area I do not claim to understand.  Those jobs would have been nice though, and the Menominee  Nation could have used the monies as well since they suffer from many social ills currently that they do not have the funds to address.

Up in Northwoods I noticed a few murals in the town of Tomahawk, including this charming piece of imagination on the side of Cover to Cover Books.

The town of Baraboo has some new murals, including one featuring citizens of Baraboo both famous and ordinary.

While in an antique store in Baraboo I admired artistic ingenuity of another type.

There are a few noteworthy signs in Baraboo as well, including the one above that I admire every time I pass through.  And I saw a unique sign concept in Wisconsin Dells as well...

Don't be alarmed if you're in Wisconsin Dells and you see cars with moose on top of them.  I can't vouch for the pizza, but they always seem to be busy!  I'll get inside and order one of these days.

But for now I'm more interested in seeing how Aspex does with their new offering.  If you don't want a sunglass clip with your Easyclip frame you can request a BlueClip instead.  Constantly connected and exposed to the light from digital devices, today’s users need a form of protection from the harmful effects of blue-violet light which can cause headaches, sleepless nights and digital eyestrain, not to mention the long term effect of possible damage to retinal cells that could increase your risk of macular degeneration.

Whether you want a removable BlueClip or choose some other form of protection those who spend a lot of time in front of devices should seriously consider adding something to their next pair of glasses, and this is especially true for children.  Cory has a blue-blocking anti-reflective coating on both of his pairs of glasses and I have it on my computer glasses.  I opted for the sunglass clip over my anti-reflection coated lenses in my new Aspex frame - I'm sure I'll be wearing it the next time you see an outdoor photograph of me!

Bloggers on Black Elk Peak

So here I sit in the 1881 Bank Coffee House in downtown Custer, using a "lure" to attract Pokemon to me while I sip a delicious soy latte, take advantage of free wifi and count all the achy spots on my body from my hike with Linda yesterday.

1881 Bank Coffee House 

Linda and I have wanted to meet for a long time, but there is just a little bit of distance between my home and her home in Portland, just a smidge over 2,000 miles, but who's counting?

Clever idea for tabletops- check out those "Buffalo" nickels!

When Wayne and I changed our plans for our fall trip the timing was finally right as I remembered that she usually makes a trip to South Dakota to visit her parents.  We met for lunch in Rapid City on Monday, but yesterday we got together for that long awaited photographer's hike and it was such a great day that I want to post about it first!

Linda hadn't done the Harney Peak Trail in a few years and I was up for the 7 mile roundtrip challenge to the top.  Starting at about 6,200 feet, the Harney Peak trail gains 1,100 feet in elevation over the 3.5 mile hike to the summit.

With a glimpse of Sylvan Lake at the starting point and then an easy stroll through some forest this trail was stunning even before the ascent really began.

Linda and I had lots to talk about, though she had more oxygen and more experience with hiking uphill at elevation so I let her lead the way both verbally and as a trail guide.

We both agreed the light and the weather couldn't be beat and that it was great hiking with a fellow photographer who knew when to get out of your light and how to be patient with lollygagging!

Pretty asters, perfect light

Wildflowers are a little scarce this late in the season but we enjoyed the asters, and I enjoyed hearing Linda talk about her life growing up in this area and her memories of hiking this trail over the years.

There were a lot of ladies besides us on the trail, not just hikers but also workers from the Forest Service who were clearing trees to make way for a mule team carrying supplies up the mountain.  These ladies were proof women can do anything men can do, just look at them making short work of that tree after a 3 mile hike up toting equipment!

We thanked them for their service (or rather Linda did, I was too out of breath!) and moved on to the final leg of the ascent toward the fire tower...and the beginning of the views that make this hike worth the effort.

Cathedral Spires

Harney Peak actually was just renamed Black Elk Peak a few weeks ago.  The Federal Board of Geographic Names made the decision and the public was a bit surprised by the swift and unexpected change.

From the Rapid City Journal: "In this case, the board felt that the name was derogatory or offensive being that it was on a holy site of the Native Americans," Yost said, adding that the change applies to federal usage on new maps or other products.

Army Gen. William S. Harney's men massacred Native American women and children during a battle in September 1855, according to historic records.

The controversy lies in the fact that the name change went against public opinion and the recommendation of state officials.  I am sure that there is a complicated history between the local Native Americans and the Americans who are descendants of the men who conquered their people.

My heart goes out to the Oglala Lakota as they continue their struggle for reparations.  Hopefully time and mutual effort will continue to repair these old wounds.

Black Elk Peak is the highest point in South Dakota at 7,242 feet.  It was here that the Harney Peak Fire Tower was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps from 1935 to 1938.

 Stones gathered from French Creek were used to construct the tower. All of the building materials were hauled by man and mule along the trail to the summit of Harney Peak, just as the materials the workers were using during our visit were being transported.

The lookout tower, dam, pump house and stairway were constructed upon the highpoint. The reservoir created by the dam supplied water to the living quarters which were located in the lower level of the Harney Peak Fire Tower. The comforts of electricity, flush toilets, and a central heating system were incorporated into the remote Harney Peak Fire Lookout Tower.

Preservation work on the tower has been underway for a few years now, focusing on repairing masonry work and replacing windows and doors.

Once up in the tower we had expansive views and I spotted Lakota prayer ties out on the surrounding rock.  After checking online and verifying that is wasn't disrespectful to photograph them I was eager to learn more about them and their significance to the local Native Americans.

The cloth is usually wrapped around tobacco, a sacred plant to the tribe, and are brought to sacred sites to aid in prayer or meditation.  They are left at the site in hopes that the intentions of the maker will be absorbed into the surroundings and act as a blessing for those who come in contact with it.  I know that I felt blessed as I pondered the lives of the people who have for centuries called this place home.

The rock in South Dakota never disappoints, and I made an effort to bask in its marvelous complexity.  I was grateful for Linda's knowledge of geology and tried to connect names as she pointed them out to me, but I was weary and the only feldspar and mica "stuck".  When visiting keep your eyes open for the veins of quartz running through the rock, I've been noticing it everywhere we go!

Unfortunately what goes up must also come down, so I stumbled my way along behind Linda.  Just when my energy was at its lowest we finally ran across the mule train on their way up with supplies.  How lucky we were to be there on a day to see and learn so much about the preservation efforts!

After dragging my exhausted self to Linda's car we ended our time together with a lunch at Baker's Bakey and Cafe in downtown Custer where I picked up the most amazing donuts to take home.  I did not feel one bit guilty when I ate two of them...after my two hour nap!

Now I just have to figure out how and when I'm going to get to Oregon so we can hike together again!  Here's a short movie of our hike: